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Senyora Catellina Gomes de Godoy - Creating a 14th Century Persona


Luttrell Psalter, British Museum, dated c. 1340
(Houston p. 100)


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Please forgive my blatant snatching of other peoples hard work! I am just starting out with my research and am using these pages to take notes. I have added the website where every quote originates from and/or included bibliography - eventually I will encorporate all into my own paper.
"The surcoat was also a form of adornment for the cotehardie style of dress.  It appears to have become more prevalent in the 1400's than earlier, and seems to be more popular on women than on men.  From what I can gather, the surcoat appears to have originally started out centuries earlier as a form of male dress, typically worn over armor, and was adopted later in the 13th century by women.  The surcoat is simply a sleeveless often unfitted tunic that fits over the top of the cotehardie.  Later on, the sides were even taken out of the female style of this garment.  I heard it was often referred to as the "Gates of Hell."

"The central part that was fitted over the torso has been seen made out of cloth, fur and even has exhibited what appears to be a long strip of precious metal, jewelry and more often buttons.  The length of the surcoat extended to the floor over the cotehardie."


"The second half of the (14th) century also saw the development of the sideless gown or sideless surcoat, a sleeveless overtunic with the front of the bodice cut away, sometimes to a narrow strip (right). The sideless gown was often edged or entirely made with fur. In this case, more of the close-fitting undergown could be seen, advertising the figure of the wearer in a way which caused over-moralistic clerics to dub the sideless gown "the gates of hell." (de Huguenin)

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de Huguenin, Jehanne. Garb Seemly and Proper, Part IV: The Fourteenth Century.

Mary, Duchess of Brittany
(Houston, p. 108)

Mary, Duchess of Brittany, Child of Edward III (who died in 1377), from his tomb in Westminster Abbey.

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Karen Hamilton
Greenville, SC 2005, 2006
Senyora Catellina Gomes de Godoy
Oporto, Portugal - 1365 A.D.